Some people think that brewers friend is good for starting out, but you need to upgrade when you get more experienced. The recipe editor, water calcs, recipe library, forum, and inventory mgt all work well and work together. A few years ago that wouldn’t have been the case, but now I’m happy with it. I recently lost a lot of recipes on Beersmith due my laptop crashing, and that turned me away. The biggest thing is it just needs a complete overhaul to web interface. The water calcs are worse in my opinion than what is available on either Brewfather or Brewer’s Friend, but it is workable. Also, extract brewing with specialty grains is not handled well - so Brewfather is a no go.īeersmith is a good program, and the recipe database is good. Many recipes, and the grain bills, are not in English, and that is frustrating. I’m not trying to bash here, it’s just that the ingredient database seems to be include grains from Europe mostly likewise the recipe library. I don’t know how to specifically explain it, but it’s too “European” for me. I tried, but I just don’t like Brewfather. I brew mostly all grain, with an occasional extract brew, and my standard batch size is 3.25g this I am small batch! I have used Beersmith 3, Brewfather, and Brewers Friend, trying to figure out which one suits my game the best. The real value of brewing software is when you calibrate all of your equipment (to be able to accurately predict the brewday), manage your ingredient inventory, etc.Ī buddy of mine is still using ProMash. Now, to be clear, if someone's main purpose is simply a recipe database, *any* software will work. That said, I haven't found it to be wanting for anything when it first came out, and especially when 2.0 was released, it was light years ahead of anything else on the market (especially for Mac users, where options were always limited) A new update (2.11) was recently released, and IIRC this was the first new update in several years. On the downside, Beer Tools Pro is not maintained to the same degree as the others. I'm not convinced Beersmith or Brewfather (the only others I would consider if I had to switch today) do anything that is significantly better, and they are much harder on the eyes (especially BeerSmith, which is just fugly.) I do this with a robobrew also so total top-up for both in the final 58L batch becomes 6L.I use Beer Tools Pro, and still feel like it's the best brewing software out there (functionality, GUI, etc.). In this scenario the top up water would be 3L. That is with 15L mash and 18.5L sparge suggested from bsmith. I know from Beersmith that if I add 18gm Superpride that I should get 22.3 IBU in a 29L batch using grainfather as equipment, set with 3L fermenter topup in profile. My scenario if anyone is interested was just a basic recipe of 4kg trad malt, 200gm crystal and 200gm light munich - all joe white. I do appreciate you going to the trouble of providing screenshots etc, but with my fiddling around I haven't been able to get it to play ball. I did play around with this in quite a few ways, but I could not get a result where it seemed to be utilising the concept correctly as it does in Beersmith. Using the hardwired method it was suggesting I use a 27L mash for about 4.5Kg of grain. What I was looking for was for the software to still advise the correct mash volume, sparge volume etc for the recipe, but understanding that my final batch size is larger than max values of my equipment and so to put the rest as top up water and calculate IBU accordingly. It does not seem to affect IBU calculation and it feels a bit 'hard wired'. When I try this it simply uses the largest mash volume possible, plus max sparge and then whatever is left becomes top up water. I gave this a go but I'm not sure if it really achieving the purpose. You should be able to nail down what works for you in no more than 2-3 brews. You can rapidly chill the wort in a sink of iced water, the strain the cooled wort into a fermenter with the rest of the cubed wort. The other option is do a mini boil with about 5-10L of wort and use that for your late hops (search for Argon's method). Great smooth bitterness and amazing late hop character. I calculate it as a 15 minute addition, and it works brilliantly for my setup (old 17L fresh wort kit cubes). Most people calculate the IBUs added from cube hops/late hops as somewhere between a 10-20 minute addition.įWIW, when I make a hoppy beer I put in a bittering addition at 60 minutes (with about 20-30% of the total IBUs), then put a huge cube hop addition to make up the rest of the IBUs + the flavour. Calculating late additions for no chill is a bit of a dark art, and hard to get from brewing software as there are a lot of variables (cube volume, wort temp, type of hops, ambient temp etc).īest way is a bit of trial and error to work it out for you're gear and cube sizes.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |